Canon PowerShot A2500 16MP Digital Camera (Silver)

 Well, this is the new one. check it out, guys :)

Effortless Imaging

The PowerShot A2500 makes highly advanced imaging technology fun and easy to use, so you'll capture beautiful stills and video. The camera's 16.0 Megapixel sensor and DIGIC 4 Image Processor capture a wealth of detail and natural color, so even your enlarged images have impressive resolution. With the 5x Optical Zoom with 28mm Wide-Angle lens, everything from close-up snaps to breathtaking landscapes is within your reach. Smart AUTO recognizes 32 shooting situations and automatically chooses the proper camera settings, and Digital IS keeps even dark scenes and fast-moving subjects sharp and steady. Preserving memories in rich, lifelike 720p HD video is as easy as pressing the dedicated movie button, and Scene Modes like Fisheye Effect, Toy Camera Effect and Monochrome give you new ways to shoot more creatively. Plus, you can shoot longer with new ECO Mode, which reduces power consumption. A Help Button makes the PowerShot A2500 perfect even for beginners, with one-touch access to helpful instructions and advice.

High Resolution, Highly Advanced Performance

16.0 Megapixel sensor

With the camera's 16.0 Megapixels of resolution, your images are rich and clear, with textures and tiny details faithfully reproduced even at the long end of the 5x Optical Zoom. This high level of resolution is ideal for creating the largest prints, and allows you the flexibility to blow up and crop any section of an image to express your creativity. The DIGIC 4 Image Processor powers the camera's advanced systems and features, ensuring fast, reliable performance with low battery consumption.

DIGIC 4 Image Processor

Canon DIGIC Image Processors have set the standard for functionality and performance since their groundbreaking introduction in 1999. With each successive generation, DIGIC processors have brought elevated performance and powerful new features to PowerShot digital cameras. The DIGIC 4 Image Processor has ushered in a new level of picture quality and accelerated processing, making possible features such as high-speed continuous shooting, HD video and Face Detection Self-timer.

Zoom in on Wider, Steadier Shots

5x Optical Zoom with 28mm Wide-Angle lens delivers stunning images

The 5x Optical Zoom (35mm equivalent: 28–140mm) in the PowerShot A2500 digital camera delivers outstanding optical performance and versatility. It gives you a great range of potential images from a single location, which is perfect for sporting events and other occasions when your shooting stance is fixed, or times when moving in too close might disrupt the action you're trying to capture. The lens' 28mm wide-angle perspective puts more image in every frame for dynamic, exciting shots.

A Smarter Camera Means Better Photos

Smart AUTO

Photographers of all levels appreciate a camera – especially a go-anywhere compact digital – that takes the hassle out of capturing beautiful images. The PowerShot A2500 gives you Smart AUTO – sophisticated Canon technology that makes getting that great shot as simple as pressing the shutter button. Smart AUTO automatically detects scenes by assessing various factors in both the background and the subject. Detected scenes are analyzed using 32 predefined shooting situations. The camera then makes optimal settings to ensure the best possible image capture when shooting still images. Smart AUTO also includes Advanced Subject Detection, which allows the camera to detect and track non-human moving subjects like animals and vehicles. With Smart AUTO, all you have to do is frame your shot and capture away.

Shooting Modes/Special Scene Modes

Smart AUTO	The camera automatically selects the best shooting settings for optimal quality based on subjects and environmental factors to provide point-and-shoot simplicity.
Program	The camera automatically and intelligently selects the aperture/shutter speed combination based on the shooting conditions.
Live View Control	Enables Brightness, Color, and Tone adjustments to your images using easy-to-understand controls.
Digital IS	The camera digitally corrects image blur by analyzing the subject prior to choosing the best correction method.
Portrait	Brings the subject into focus while beautifully blurring the background.
Face Self-timer	The camera waits for a face to enter the frame before releasing the shutter.
Low Light	For high quality image capture in an amazing range of dimly lit situations.
Fisheye Effect	Now you can get the fisheye effect – a classic photographic distortion – without a fisheye lens.
Miniature Effect	Give images a miniature look with an effect that emphasizes perspective by blurring the top and bottom of the image.
Toy Camera Effect	Simulates photos taken with "toy" or pinhole cameras, darkening the image at the edges to create a vignette effect.
Monochrome	Choose from three single-tone effects: Black-and-White, Sepia, or Blue.
Super Vivid	Super Vivid intensifies existing hues, saturating the scene with bright colors.
Poster Effect	Poster Effect combines several similar shades into one color, turning subtle gradations into eye-catching, scene-popping contrasts.
Snow	Shoot clear snow scenes without darkened subjects or an unnatural bluish tint.
Fireworks	Create brilliant images of skyrocketing fireworks.
Long Shutter	Use to blur moving subjects for artistic effect, ideal for urban night photography.
Movie	Record video; unwanted scenes can be deleted in playback mode.

Gorgeous HD Video From Your Still Camera

Shoot brilliant 720p HD video

Using the pocket-sized PowerShot A2500, you can shoot high definition video anytime, anywhere. With a simple push of the dedicated movie button, you'll be able to instantly record every moment in motion. 720p HD video is smooth, vivid, and beautifully lifelike, making it an ideal way to capture special memories. In addition to being able to shoot 720p HD video at 25 frames per second, the PowerShot A2500 can also shoot 640 x 480 VGA video at 30^* frames per second.

^*Actual frame rate is 29.97 fps.

Dedicated movie button for easy video capture

It's never been easier to shoot videos with a PowerShot digital camera. To make shooting video as natural as snapping pictures, the PowerShot A2500 has a dedicated movie button. No need to plan ahead, no need to search through menus on the LCD screen; when you feel a moment would be best captured in 720p HD, simply press the button and recording begins. The camera is always ready to shoot stills or video whenever you want.

Say Goodbye to Blur

Digital IS reduces the effect of camera shake and subject movement

Digital IS beats the blur that mars many shots by recognizing the main subject, then automatically applying the camera shake correction that best suits the situation. If the subject is a person, blur reduction processing is performed. For landscapes, cityscapes and other still scenes, the camera takes three quick successive shots and composes them into a single clear image. If the subject is moving, the camera takes three successive shots, then automatically saves the clearest image.

A Charge that Lasts as Long as a Memory

New ECO Mode helps reduce power consumption for longer battery life

The PowerShot A2500 takes energy conservation to the next level with ECO Mode, which provides more shots per single charge through LCD monitor and camera power management. ECO Mode can be activated via a dedicated button for easy power preservation when an outlet is unavailable or the moment is too exciting to put the camera down. ECO Mode quickly wakes the camera from sleep when a button is pressed so you won't miss the moment. When the fun with family and friends runs late into the evening, ECO Mode on the PowerShot A2500 makes sure your camera keeps up.

More Ways to Get Creative

Scene Modes

Scene Modes are fun, easy ways to give your shots a distinctly artistic feel without the need for any extra lenses and filters. Super Vivid heightens and saturates colors for eye-popping intensity. Poster Effect eliminates gradations between colors for an illustrative feel. Miniature Effect enhances perspective in a scene, blurring the top and bottom to make it look as if it were created with miniature models. You can also make a quirky portrait using the Fisheye Effect or add a beautiful single-tone effect with Monochrome. Toy Camera Effect simulates a vintage look as it capturing the photo using a "toy" or pinhole camera.

Help You Won't Need Help to Find

Help Button

The PowerShot A2500 digital camera is designed to be fun and easy to use, even for beginners. A Help Button on the camera's exterior brings up the help menu any time you need it, right on the LCD screen. From here, you can scroll through a variety of topics that answer your questions with clear explanations, offer helpful shooting advice, and show you diagrams highlighting the position of any buttons you'll need.

Well, I think enough for this one. How? are you interested? If you want to buy or need more information about this camera, just click here. Have a nice day :)

10 Tips For Capturing What You See

All right, here are some tips for you, guys. I got it from one of our friends Check it out.

So you have an artistic eye.  You see the world in ways that are unique, interesting, and different.  You want to share this world view through your photography… but one of the greatest frustrations new photographers encounter is that when they get back to their computer and pull images off the camera, the results are nothing like the grand vision they experienced while shooting.  Has this ever happened to you? I should emphasize that the tips I’ll share here are like a double edged sword: you can use them to more accurately portray your inner vision of a shot, or they can be used to accurately reproduce exactly what your eye physically observed. Frequently, these are definitely not the same thing.

Here are 10 great photography tips to help you actually capture what you see, but before we get to the tips… have you joined our Facebook community of photographers?

1: Decide on a clear center of attention

What is it about what your eye sees that is so interesting? Is it a specific object? Is it the positioning of several elements in view? Is it the colors you see, or how they interact? You know what is interesting, so frame the shot to omit distractions and noise. Remember that someone who sees your picture later won’t know about anything that is not in the frame, so leave as much to their imagination as you can. For example, if you are taking a picture of a child running at a park, move yourself around so that you don’t also have a soccer game or playground competing for attention in the shot. Let the person viewing the shot imagine that the child is just running through an open field, making the imagery stronger.

2: Remember that your eye has a better dynamic range than your camera

Dynamic range has to do with how well you can see the extremes of lights and darks at the same time. The human eye is capable of very high dynamic range, allowing us to clearly see a very dark subject against a very bright background. Cameras, on the other hand, have a much lower dynamic range. This can make it nearly impossible to get your camera to capture what you see, because you simply see much better than your camera does. Here is an example of what I’m talking about.

Underexposed

Viola!

The image on the left has the ocean nicely exposed, but the subject is totally in silhouette. The image on the right was taken with nearly the same camera settings but I used my speedlight as a fill flash to get the subject’s face brighter – closer to the brightness of the ocean behind her. Remember when shooting that your camera will not be able to see both extremes of light and dark at the same time, so you may have to try to adjust the scene to either darken the lights or lighten the darks. Some techniques to lighten up darks are to use a fill flash as above, or a reflector (or large white poster board) to direct more light where you need it. To darken bright areas, you can use your reflector as a shade, move your subject to somewhere darker, etc. Just try to reduce a huge variance between the brightest and darkest portion of your images, favoring the portion of the image you want to properly expose. In other words, if you really want to get the darks of the image, darken the bright areas. If you really want to get the bright areas, add light where it is too dark.

3: Aperture control for DOF

Most photographers quickly figure out shutter speed and ISO, but fewer seem to grasp the power of the aperture settings on their camera. I could easily dedicate an entire post to the topic of aperture control, but for now I’ll sum it up like this: A wide aperture (small F number) will produce a very narrow depth of focus. A very small aperture (large F number) will produce a very deep depth of focus. What does this mean? This means that you can control how out of focus as well as how bright the non-subject portions of your shots are. Let me illustrate with an example:

On the left we have a wide aperture, on the right a much smaller one.

For these shots, I just grabbed a bottle of water and put it on my kitchen counter. Both used a bounced flash, but I had to tweak the power of the flash and the ISO to get the exposures similar (see the bit about the Exposure Triangle below). The shot on the left used an aperture of 1.8, the one on the right used an aperture of 11. Notice how the one on the left has such a shallow depth of field that even the label on the bottle is out of focus and beginning to darken because it is a few centimeters farther away than the front face of the bottle. If you really want to help bring your subject out of a background of chaos, use a wider aperture. If you want to get more elements of your shot in focus, with a more evenly distributed exposure, use a tighter aperture.

4: Careful composition to either expand upon or contract the feel of the photo

This technique will possibly have some of you shaking your heads in disgust, because I’m going to ask you to actually move your FEET while shooting. Many novice photographers rely far too heavily on the fact that their camera has a zoom, and sacrifice a whole range of composition possibilities because they refuse to move their feet to get closer to or farther away from their subject. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m all in favor of using that fancy zoom you’ve got – but I want you to understand what it is doing. When you zoom in, you not only get the subject to appear larger, but you cut out much of the background that may possibly be part of what you wish to capture. Sometimes it is better to zoom farther out and move your feet closer to the subject. This will make your subject larger but capture more of the surroundings to better portray what your eye sees. The opposite is also true, of course. You can use your zoom to carefully decide what part of the background you want to have visible…Sometimes you’ll need to zoom in on the subject but move farther away from them to get the composition you want.

5: Be ready – moments come and go quickly

I can’t count the number of times I’ve been in a perfect position to capture a truly memorable image, but had my camera in my bag. Or turned off. Or on the wrong settings. Some shot opportunities only last a second or 2, and if you don’t have your camera in your hand, turned on, and set to reasonable settings you may miss it. When I’m shooting, I’ll frequently (as in a few times a minute) double check my camera settings. I’m constantly adjusting the exposure triangle to fit what I’m shooting so I can be ready when the opportunity arrives.

6: Understand the exposure triangle

There is no shortage of great images explaining the exposure triangle on the interwebs. Here is a brief summary of the 3 parts of your camera’s exposure:

ISO: This sets how “sensitive to light” your camera becomes. A higher ISO number means the camera will be more sensitive so you can use a faster shutter speed or smaller aperture, but will also be progressively more grainy with higher and higher numbers.

Shutter Speed: This sets how long your shutter will stay open, letting light hit your sensor. Slower shutter speeds will produce motion blur if anything in your image is moving, but they let in much more light allowing for a lower ISO or tighter aperture. Faster shutter speeds can “stop time” and make even quickly moving objects appear to be frozen, but they let in much less light, so you’ll need to compensate with a larger aperture or a higher ISO.

Aperture: The “aperture” of your lens is much like the iris of your eye – it can be opened very large to let in a lot of light, or it can be opened only a tiny bit to let in only a very little amount of light. As I discussed above, a wide aperture will produce a very shallow depth of field, while a smaller aperture will produce a much deeper field of focus.

It should be obvious that ISO, shutter speed, and aperture all affect each other. If you open your aperture, you’ll need to speed up your shutter or use a lower ISO. If you change your ISO, you’ll need to adjust either your shutter or aperture (or possibly both) to compensate to get the right exposure. Just as in the shots I took of the water bottle above, I had to make multiple adjustments to the other aspects of my exposure when I changed the aperture size between the 2 shots. Once you have mastered the exposure triangle, you can leverage the parts of the triangle to more accurately capture what you see.

7: P is not for “Professional”

So you went and spent a bunch of money on a really expensive camera – that will make your photos instantly professional looking, right? Well, I’m sorry to say it but no. An expensive camera in the hands of an amateur will still produce amateur shots. Most DSLRs I’ve seen in recent years come with a fully automatic setting, and several semi-automatic settings, as well as full manual. I’d recommend learning how to use your “Aperture Priority” as well as “Shutter Priority” settings, then move on to get comfortable in full manual. Learning how to use your camera’s full manual mode will provide you the power to capture what you see.

8: Pay attention to your light sources

When you take a picture, you are really just capturing light, so you need to be able to pay attention to all your light sources and understand how they will interact with the mechanics of your camera. The most common pitfall here is when shooting with the sun slightly in front of you but off to one side. In this situation, you can’t see the sun in your viewfinder, but if you move around in front of the camera, you’ll see that there is direct sunlight hitting the front element of your lens. As the sunlight hits the surface of the front element of your lens, some of the light is scattered back into the body of the lens and ultimately onto your camera’s image sensor. This will produce a “washed out” effect that is not really visible through the viewfinder when shooting, but will ruin your shot. However, there are much more subtle ways that light can do funky things with your equipment. On a recent shoot, we draped Christmas lights over a little girl and took a few shots of her looking all mischievous.

At first I thought the extra dots were the lights actually shining on the wall, etc. Then I realized I still had a polarizing filter on my lens from earlier in the day when we were outdoors in bright sunlight.The extra dots were actually a reflection of the Christmas lights off the front of the lens being reflected off the back of my filter, and even though the camera was picking them up well, they were so faint that I could not see them in the viewfinder. Removing the filter took care of the problem.

9: Always check your camera settings

I like to say that “leftover settings produce leftover shots”. I’ve had plenty of shots ruined because I pulled my camera out of my bag to start a shoot on a nice sunny day and forgot to check the settings, which were last used on a very dark, overcast day. I’ve had to learn the hard way to check my camera settings before I start shooting at each setting.

10: Practice!

We’ve all heard that practice makes perfect – but I prefer the adage that perfect practice makes perfect. Photography is an art form that requires a lot of mental thought be put into every shot – I’d recommend practicing each of the previous tips one at a time until they all become second nature and you can easily do them all at the same time. Then you’ll be armed with the tools you need to truly capture what you see.

For more information, just visit: http://improvephotography.com/2989/10-tips-for-capturing-what-you-see/

How to Clean Your Lens and Filters Properly

Well, some of important parts of camera are lens and filters. Both of them take crucial rules in making nice picture. All right, this is one of tips and solutions about how to keep those parts properly. This useful writing was made by Allan Weitz. Check it out, guys.

By Allan Weitz

Published: Monday, January 10, 2011 - 1:09pm

The first question most people ask when shopping for a new lens is “Is it sharp?”, yet if you were to pop the lens cap off that new lens a month down the line there’s a 50-50 chance you’ll find dust and a fingerprint or two on it. And if it’s not on the lens, there’s a 50-50 chance there’s dust or a fingerprint or two on the “protective filter,” which was purchased to keep dust and fingerprints off that new lens. And that’s on a DSLR.

If it’s a point-and-shoot camera, there’s even a greater chance of dust or fingerprints on the lens because when you turn the camera off, the lens usually slips behind little louver blades that A) protect the lens, and B) hide the fact there’s dust or a fingerprint on the lens.
Checking your lens for dust and smudges is something you should do on a regular basis, not only to ensure you’re getting the sharpest possible pictures, but also because a fingerprint or alien smudge left to “ripen” can cause permanent damage to the lens coatings. Keeping your lenses clean isn’t rocket science, but nonetheless, is a chore that should be performed carefully, thoughtfully and with the proper tools and techniques.
Dust and smudges on the front element of your lens (or your filter) are the easiest to spot because they’re front and center. While dust and smudges on the front element can diminish sharpness and contrast levels, you lose greater levels of sharpness and contrast when you have dust or smudges on the rear lens element because that’s the one that ultimately projects your image onto the camera’s sensor (or film). If your “projector lens” isn’t clean, your pictures won’t be sharp as they can be.

The Proper Tools for Cleaning Lenses and Filters

• Air blower (Not canned air!)
• Camel-hair brush
• Lens tissue or micro-fiber cloth
• Methyl alcohol (aka methanol or wood alcohol)

The Proper Technique for Cleaning Your Lens or Filter

The surface of your camera’s lens has special coatings designed to maximize contrast, color saturation and color fidelity as well as minimize flare. These coatings can be scratched easily, and as such, when cleaning your lens it’s always a good idea to keep things simple. If dust or loose grit is the only villain, the best way to get rid of it is to gently brush the surface of the lens with a soft, camel-hair brush or give it a few blasts of air using a bulb-style air blower. Avoid using pressurized canned air. Avoid grinding grit into the lens surface with a cleaning cloth.

Smudges and fingerprints take a bit more effort, and here too, you should be as gentle as possible. Start by taking a soft micro-fiber cloth or a piece of lens tissue (folded, not bunched up), breathe onto the lens surface (never dry-clean a lens) and gently wipe the lens surface in a circular motion. Repeat if needed using a fresh piece of lens tissue or clean portion of the micro fiber cloth. If this doesn’t work, try dampening the tissue or cloth with a few drops of methanol (wood alcohol) or alcohol based lens-cleaning fluid and try again by gently wiping the lens in a circular motion.

Alcohol or lens-cleaning fluid should never be applied directly onto the lens surface. Doing so can possibly harm the lens coatings and/or compromise the adhesives that hold the lens elements in place.

If you’re out on a shoot and need to clean dust or smudges off your lens, and do not have a micro-fiber cloth or lens tissue with you, a cotton t-shirt or similar cotton-based material (preferably old and not freshly starched) should do the job equally well. What you never want to use is facial tissue, paper towels, polyester-based material, or any type of coarse or abrasive fabric or paper surface.

If the above procedures fail to do the job, or if gritty particles that can scratch the lens coatings are embedded in the smudge, you’d be wise to have a qualified technician address the problem.

If you can see a few bits of dust floating around between your lens’s inner elements, they’re not worth fretting over, as they will have little if any visible impact on the sharpness levels of your photographs, and are certainly not worth the time, trouble, or expense of having the lens taken apart, cleaned and reassembled.

Dust on your Mirror and Imaging Sensor

A common misconception about dust is that you can see it in your camera’s viewfinder. The truth is the specs of dust you see in your viewfinder are not on your lens, but on your camera’s mirror. These dust marks, as distracting as they may be, do not affect your picture quality. Now before you take your lens off and try to clean your mirror, be advised the mirror in your camera is a surface-coated mirror finish, which can be permanently scratched with little effort on your part. Never, ever try blasting dust off with canned air, because you’ll most likely pit or scar the mirrored coating, or even blow the mirror off its hinges altogether.

The most drastic action you should take is to try removing the dust particles by gently blowing them off with a bulb-type air blower. If this doesn’t do the trick, bring the camera to a trained technician or simply live with it because as noted above, dust on the mirror is annoying, but will not affect your picture quality.

Dust marks on your image files―specifically, blurry smudge-like marks that appear repeatedly on the same portions of all of your image files―are caused by dust on your camera’s imaging sensor. Here too, the most drastic and least invasive action you should try on your own is to remove the lens, set your camera to the mirror-lock position, and gently blow it off with a bulb-style air blower while holding the camera face down. If this does not work, it’s recommended that you have a trained technician clean your camera’s sensor. And just as you should never blast your mirror with canned air, the same goes for your camera’s imaging sensor.

Well, how do you think? I hope you can get a new information for your camera(s). All right, for further information about another tips and solutions from Allan Weitz, just visit http://www.bhphotovideo.com/indepth/photography/tips-solutions/how-clean-your-lens-and-filters-properly. Have a nice information, guys :)

Canon EOS Rebel T3 12.2 MP CMOS Digital SLR with 18-55mm IS II Lens and EOS HD Movie Mode (Black)

Well, this is one of the best cameras, guys. Check it out! :)

• 12.2 MP CMOS sensor and DIGIC 4 Image Processor for high image quality and speed.
• ISO 100 - 6400 for shooting from bright to dim light.
• Improved EOS HD Movie mode with expanded recording and with in-camera video editing options.
• High speed, reliable 9-point AF system utilizing a high precision, f/5.6 cross-type center point.
• Enhanced metering with a 63-zone, Dual-layer metering system for accurate metering between exposures.

This is the front part with its complete button options.

This is the concept of this camera and you can check it in this video, just click here, guys.

Here are some pictures captured by using this nice camera:

Product Description

From the Manufacturer

New Technology for Outstanding Images.
12.2 Megapixel CMOS (APS-C) sensor and DIGIC 4 Image Processor for high image quality and speed.

Canon’s CMOS (Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor) sensor captures images with exceptional clarity and tonal range, and offers the most pixels in its class. It offers many of the same new technologies to maximize each pixel’s light gathering efficiency that were first seen with the professional EOS-1D Mark III model. It’s an APS-C size sensor (22.2 x 14.8mm), and there's an effective 1.6x increase in the lens's marked focal length when attached.

12.2 Megapixel APS-C Size CMOS Sensor

 

DIGIC 4 Image Processor

The improved DIGIC 4 Image Processor ensures that images are captured, processed and saved with remarkable speed. The EOS Rebel T3 DSLR’s new 3:2 multiple aspect ratio, in-camera RAW image processing, creative filters, image resizing and provided S2 and S3 image-recording quality are all possible thanks to the DIGIC 4 Image Processor. With dazzling results, the new DIGIC 4 Image Processor also works to capture and process data of images shot at 12.2 Megapixels at 3.0 fps, as well as 14-bit signal processing for excellent image gradation, enhanced Face Detection Live mode, Full HD video recording, Auto Lighting Optimizer and Lens Peripheral Optimization.

 

Excellence from Dawn to Dusk.
ISO 100 – 6400 for shooting from bright to dim light.

With a broad range of ISO settings, the EOS Rebel T3 enables shooting from sunrise to sunset and helps ensure capture of the finest detail. With enhanced high-sensitivity optimization, subjects can be captured clearly and easily at high shutter speeds without flash, with minimized blur and noise. In bright scenes, especially long exposures in daylight, optimal exposure can be achieved with a fully open wide-diameter lens, no dark filter needed.

High Definition Made Easy.
Improved EOS HD Movie mode with expanded recording [HD: 30p (29.97) / 25p], and with in-camera video editing options.

The EOS Rebel T3 DSLR’s expanded repertoire of technologies includes shooting video in brilliantly clear, exactingly sharp high definition for playback on your HDTV! Shooting at 1280 x 720 at 30 (29.97) or 25 frames per second, HD video can be taken immediately through the EOS Rebel T3 camera’s intuitive operation and layout. Parameters for white balance and picture style are already set — just grab and go!

Incredible AutoFocus.
High speed, reliable 9-point AF system utilizing a high precision, f/5.6 cross-type center point.

The EOS Rebel T3 has a high-precision, 9-point AF system utilizing a high-precision, f/5.6 cross-type center point. The 9-point AF system uses both normal and high-precision focus depending on the aperture and available light. The 9 focus points can be chosen automatically or manually selected.

9-point AF

 Accurate Metering for Perfect Exposure.
Enhanced metering with a 63-zone, Dual-layer metering system for accurate metering between exposures.

The EOS Rebel T3 features Canon’s newest Dual-layer sensor, with 63 zones. By measuring not only the amount of light, but also taking into account color and luminosity, this new system delivers a very high level of accuracy for better results every time. Since the metering sensor has a color measurement function, exposure errors and focus errors caused by different light sources are minimized; the EOS Rebel T3 gives stable exposure from shot to shot in situations where light changes, such as sports on a cloudy day, or indoor holiday scenes.

Metering zones

 

Speedy, Precise Operation.
3.0 fps continuous shooting up to approximately 3 JPEGs or approximately 2 RAW.

The EOS Rebel T3 operates with such effortless speed that operation is nothing short of intuitive. With instant startup times, speedy autofocus and minimal shutter lag, the EOS Rebel T3 is one of the fastest cameras available today. It can shoot up to 3.0 fps (frames per second), in bursts of up to approximately 3 JPEGs or 2 RAW files, so you won’t miss a shot.

 

 3.0 fps Continuous Shooting

See the Image on a Large LCD with Live View Function.
2.7-inch wide TFT LCD monitor (230,000 dots) with Live View function for improved viewing.

The EOS Rebel T3 has a huge, bright 2.7-inch TFT (thin film transistor) LCD monitor with 230,000 pixels and a viewing angle of 170°. It’s perfect for Live View composition or viewing camera settings like AF, ISO, Metering, AF Point selection and flash options. And the maximum brightness of the EOS Rebel T3 DSLR’s LCD monitor is about 30% greater than its predecessor, which is a big benefit when you’re using the camera in bright sunlight.

Live View Function
Live View Function enables you to view your subjects directly on the huge 2.7-inch LCD monitor. It’s easy to magnify any part of the scene 5x or 10x for precise manual focus. And now, there are two ways to use Autofocus along with Live View Function in the EOS Rebel T3. You can even choose a grid overlay, perfect for keeping straight lines in your subject straight in your pictures. In the studio, Live View Function can be used remotely via a computer through the EOS Rebel T3 DSLR’s USB connection.

Make Your Images As You See Them.
Express your creativity with ease using advanced imaging features like the new Basic+ function, Quick Setting function and Creative Auto.

Basic+ is a new creative imaging feature that makes it easy to create the image effects you want. It can be set with the Quick Control screen in Basic Zone modes. Basic+ provides two options:
Shoot by ambience selection:
Based on the Picture Style and its parameters (sharpness, contrast, saturation, and color tone), the exposure compensation and white balance correction are adjusted to attain the selected ambience. You can also select the strength of the ambience effect.
Shoot by lighting or scene type:
Although the actual parameter set is the white balance, the settings are expressed in more understandable terms.
The EOS Rebel T3 DSLR’s Quick Control screen gives you instant access to the most common settings, all in one place! It’s a great way to quickly confirm or change settings while you’re shooting. The Quick Control screen is particularly useful when you’re shooting from a tripod or monopod, with the camera at eye level, because it eliminates the need to view the LCD data panel on top of the camera while changing settings.
For beginners looking to expand their photographic horizons, the EOS Rebel T3 offers Creative Auto mode. While basic settings are based on full automatic operation, shooting guides on the LCD screen enable you to make corrections based on simple to follow guidelines. In essence, with Creative Auto mode, you can learn about photography while taking stunning photographs.

Photography Made Truly Easy.

New Feature Guide offers short descriptions of each function and Quick Control screen for easy operation.

The Canon EOS Rebel T3 DSLR demystifies great photography by including an in-camera Feature Guide. Appearing on the camera’s LCD, the Feature Guide displays a simple description or advice for the respective function. It is displayed in each shooting mode, during Mode Dial operations, and for Quick Control screen functions (during normal shooting, Live View shooting, movie shooting, and playback). The Feature Guide appears automatically during Mode Dial operations and when a function is selected on the Quick Control screen.

Speedy, Wireless Image Capture and Transmission.
Compatibility with SD/SDHC/SDXC memory cards.

The EOS Rebel T3 uses popular SD, SDHC and SDXC memory cards. Compact, inexpensive and available in increasingly large capacities, SD, SDHC and SDXC memory cards are a perfect complement to the EOS Rebel T3 DSLR’s compact and lightweight body design.

Additionally, the EOS Rebel T3 is compatible with Eye-Fi* SD cards, which are outfitted with a Wi-Fi transmitter (IEEE 802.11b/g) and internal antenna for wireless, high-speed transfer of images. With an Eye-Fi card installed, the EOS Rebel T3 can display the Eye-Fi’s connection status and error notes with ease, for fully functional wireless uploading of images directly from the camera.

*Canon cameras are not guaranteed to support Eye-Fi card functions, including wireless transfer. In case of an issue with the Eye-Fi card, please consult with the card manufacturer. The use of Eye-Fi cards may not be available outside the United States and Canada; please contact the card manufacturer for territory availability.

Shooting Made Easy
Compatible with the full line of Canon EF and EF-S lenses.
EF & EF-S Lenses

The EOS Rebel T3 is compatible with all Canon lenses in the EF and EF-S lineup, ranging from ultra-wide angle to super telephoto lenses. Canon lenses employ advanced optical expertise and micron-precision engineering to deliver unprecedented performance in all facets of the photographic process. Special optical technologies, such as Aspherical, ultra-low dispersion, or fluorite elements are featured in the universally acclaimed L Series lenses, and Canon’s Optical Image Stabilizer technology are featured in select lenses to minimize the effect of camera shake. Through Canon lenses, photographers can truly maximize the quality and liberating performance of the EOS Rebel T3.

What's In The Box

·        EOS Rebel T3 Body

·        EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Type II Lens

·        Eyecup EF

·        Wide Strap EW-200DB

·        Interface Cable IFC-130U

·        Battery Pack LP-E10

·        Battery Charger LC-E10

·    EOS Digital Solution Disk and Instruction Manuals “Great photography is Easy “Booklet and “Do More with Macro “Booklet

 

The Summary of This Product Description

The Canon 5157B002 includes the EOS Rebel T3 Digital SLR Camera and the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS type II Lens. This camera and lens is perfect for photographers ready to make the move to digital SLR photography. The EOS Rebel T3 delivers beautiful photos and video, speed, simplicity and fun. It features a 12.2 Megapixel CMOS Image Sensor and Canon DIGIC 4 Image Processor for richly detailed images and quick camera response. It has Canon's amazing 63-zone, dual-layer metering for accurate exposures and features Canon's Basic+ function, HD video recording and Live View shooting, plus a convenient in-camera Feature Guide.

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